Inside Bwindi Impenetrable

The bus ride from Kampala was long but I felt like home when we stopped for road construction for an hour in the mid-day sun. They were placing a culvert and had just started digging when we pulled up. The bus easily could have driven across the broken soil (the trench wasn’t even started!), but the bossman wouldn’t allow it. It took so long, I was thinking of getting off to lend a hand, but decided a nap was a better course of action. I also planned my trip to Berlin: lots to see and do, hopefully I can fit it all in! I was joking about the chicken thing before, but it actually happened on this trip, a woman carried one in a bag all the way from Kampala!

I’m in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park , which is home of 340 of the worlds last remaining mountain gorillas (approximately 700 left). I really like this place so far, it is beautiful and we’ve made friends in the village already. I think the small town atmosphere will be more my kind of place. The mountains with their rainforest-covered slopes are straight out of George of the Jungle. I really want to do a forest walk inside the park. The volcanoes are surrounded by mist in the morning…this place is magical.

We rode a pickup truck from the end of the bus line to the park. A kind lady made sure we found the right place. We stayed in a hut inside the park; it was fantastic, but too pricey to remain there for 2 weeks. Yesterday, we found a lodge to stay at which even has a shower! The key to cold showers is warm thoughts: Jamie’s African philosophy.

Last night, we were looking for supper and met Immaculate, a teacher at a nearby primary school. She took us around the village in search of a 4 course meal for under 1000 Ushillings ($0.70). We had muchomo (meat on a stick), chips with raw cabbage, corn on the cob and mangoes for dessert. She even found us a place to sit and enjoy our food by lantern light. This was probably the most random meal I have ever eaten, but so good! Her sister, Penelope is the headmaster at the primary school. She invited us to come play football with the children when we have time. Game on!

We will be working on health monitoring of the gorillas including fecal floatation for parasites and PCR for other infectious disease organisms. A 3^rd year Vet student from Cornell, Missy, is here for a longer stay. We will be helping her in the lab as well as community education sessions. From the material I have read, I really agree with the direction of this organization which focuses as much on the community as the gorillas. The director, Dr. Gladys Kamela-Zikusooka, the founder and CEO of CTPH sounds like an amazing woman with incredible vision.

Jinja!

Our time with Dr. William was very informative, even though the Brucellosis testing was not ready to begin. I unfortunately missed the first call because I was back at the hostel unpacking and he needed to complete his surgery before dark. The second call was a heifer that needed a caesarian. After an exam, the heifer was layed on her side and 2 farm hands held her legs with ropes. Dr. William impressively shaved her flank with his scalpel, injected some lidocaine anesthetic, and went about cutting. I helped hold the calf’s leg, which was very slippery inside the uterus. I couldn’t get a grip, so my gloves were cast aside and he was able to make the incision. With the help of Maria and another farm hand, we pulled the calf out. Dr. William closed the first layer, then I had a go. Despite my lack of recent practice, I was able to suture the simple continuous will little difficulty. Viv had a go then Maria and I closed the skin. The calf was alive when we left, but it didn’t look too promising.

The next call was to help with a ring vaccination to control a Foot and Mouth Outbreak in the area. The affected farm had been quarantined, but the surrounding herds need to be vaccinated to control the spread of the disease. We arrived at the first ranch and were warmly welcomed by the owner, Charles. He is a fairly important person in the Uganda military, I gathered he was in charge of internal security for the region. After cold sodas, we headed to the corral area. The cattle were moved in small groups into a ‘crush’ which was an alley wide enough for them to stand diagonally. They were vaccinated in the neck before being released and the next groups run in. The cattle were Friesian Holstein crossed with the local Ankole breeds, which maximizes the milk production without sacrificing hardiness. From what I could see, the hybrid vigor was working well. The last group was pure Ankole. Their horns reached up to 1metre, diameter must have been 15cm. They can only be described as impressive. Move over Texas, the Ugandan Longhorns are definitely bigger! We did 2 other farms before heading back to Mbarara dog-tired, but satisfied.

On Friday, we took a bus to Kampala. I was sad to say goodbye to Mbarara since we won’t be going back until right before we are leaving. The ride was good and I enjoyed some excellent Mchomo on the bus (meat on a stick). The gritty texture adds to the experience, you can’t often tell if it is dirt or salt (maybe a bit of both?). In Kampala, we went to the Mzungo Mall, Garden City. I had an iced coffee and chocolate ice cream, I can’t remember having tasted something so good (except African Tea with chocolate, I guess). I was a little overwhelmed by the western-style bright lights, flashy signs and so many white people in one place. I went back to the craft village near the mall to lighten my wallet. I exhibited some self-control and left the giraffe statues there.

Back at the mall, we divided and conquered the movie theatre. I decided on Indian Jones: it was just the right amount of cheese for my taste. In the theatre, I could almost forget I was in Africa. Angela (who will be with us for a few weeks now), brought me back to reality when her doxycycline (antimalaria drug) alarm went off.
In the morning, we took a Matatu (minibus) transport of Jinja. I wanted to go for some equine therapy along the banks of the Nile, but it wasn’t meant to be as they company was fully booked. The rest of the group went whitewater rafting. I decided not to, I can do that at home and I would rather save that $100 to do something else. I walked down to the Source of the Nile: where the Nile River leaves Lake Victory and starts its journey across Africa. I joined some American tourists and took a boat out onto the river. It was so amazing to see. I caught a ride with the tour company to the rapids. A British gal, on her gap year, kindly took me to the rapids. Bujagali Rapids are really impressive! After seeing them from dry land, I was quite pleased with my decision to forgo a more up-close encounter. I spent a few hours sitting at watching the water go by. It was all very peaceful (between the school groups, of course). At the tour company base, I walked down to see the Nile upclose once again. On the way, they have showers set up so you can look out over the river while washing. Too bad I didn’t stay there! The BBQ was great and my rafter friend were very excited and tired about the whole experience. I decided to spend the night in Jinja to save on travel time, they opted to stay up at the rapids. On the truck back, I sat with a group of American law students who are volunteering in Kampala. It was so refreshing to talk to some new and different people! I slept like an angel in the hostel. I ate breakfast with my new lawyer friends (always good to have some of those on your side) then headed off to see Jinja. It is the nicest city I have been in here: reasonably clean, nice people, and tree-lined streets. I found another Kanga to replace the one that was lost/stolen (these are rectangular cloths with Swahili proverbs). I stood in the street listening to Diamond Rio’s “One More Day.” The locals were very curious. Sorry, no pictures this time, I’m in an internet café listening to the Backstreet Boys without my camera cable.

The plan is to go to Kampala tonight, stay at the Red Chilli then catch the bus across the country to Bwindi National Park. We are volunteering with Conservation Through Public Health there. This is the website: http://www.ctph.org/
I might have very limited internet access there, so please don’t fret if it takes a while for a new post.

June 14th: Partay Uganda Style

Our understanding was that Leanne and Judy would be arriving today and needed their rooms back at Aqua View. So we packed and moved: Maria and I to Full Stop, which is down the road from FAOC, Viv to the FAOC office where she lived last summer. One room wasn’t clean so we just dropped everything off and went back to the office. Carol (a FAOC employee) invited us to her mother’s home for a party. Her English isn’t that good and my Ranyakory is terrible, so I wasn’t exactly sure what was happening. Leanne and Judy hadn’t yet messaged us to say what time they would be arriving, so we were stuck with what to do. Viv finally called and found out they were in Zanzibar! So, since we hadn’t unpacked, we moved back to Aqua View for the next 2 nights (at a savings of 30,000 Ugandan Shillings, approximately $21 Canadian). I was really sad about not having a hot shower but the double mattress will make up for it (Viv didn’t move back so I had 2!). We packed the car: Viv, Maria, Rebecca, Hilda, Carol, and Fancis (FAOC Accountant) plus myself.

The party was set up in what would be the yard. There were tarps stretched over cut matoke tree ‘trunks’ and furniture all around. We were warmly welcomed (alliteration is fun!) and offered some millet beverage. Food was served potluck style. We were invited to eat first, which was a great honour. The servers didn’t think I had been eating enough because even though I asked for only a little, they still piled on the matoke, beans, ‘cow’, sweet potatoes, and some type of millet-jello. I was full before I finished 1/2, but managed to get 3/4 through it. I feel so bad not finishing my food here, but it is really filling!

Between lunch and the program, I noticed the most scrumptious baby (that’s right, it was so cute, I wanted to eat it). Her mother noticed me eyeing it up. I walked over as if drawn by a magnet and she kindly dumped her into my arms. Princess (yep that’s her name, I double checked) is 5 months old and has the most gigantic eyes. I agree with Teri that black babies are the way to go.

Before the program could commence, the sound system and speakers had to　ｂｅ　ｕｎｌｏａｄｅｄ　（ｉｔ　arrive via bicycle）. The music started and Carol’s mother and family danced in procession. Different groups of people took turns dancing up and presenting her with gifts. I saw a few plates, a clock, 2 wash bins, and an encocoa (chicken) wrapped in matoke leaves. I was a little chocked I didn’t know about the gift giving because I would definitely have bought a few hens. When our turn came, I led the way and busted a move. Rebecca handed over an envelope with some money and we all shook our hostess’s hands and what our mama’s gave us. The audience was especially thrilled when Rebecca and I did a do-see-do type turn. The minister gave a speech followed by Francis who said some words on our behalf. He said we were sadly going to depart, and the minister’s clan insisted we stay to see them dance. The women strapped on shakers to their legs, the minister even hiked up his robe (don’t worry, he was wearing pants). They did a great dance to the beat of handdrums and the shakers.

Regarding the children: There were so many, and they were all very well-behaved. A few girls performed a dance for us. They had fashioned skirts out of matoke leaves and sashayed in what I would describe as belly-type dancing. After the second song, people handed them coins, so I ｇave a 500, hopefully they will share. The kids were very excited to shake our hands and have their pictures taken. I think they get a real thrill out of mzungus.

Supper was at Francis’s brother’s restaurant. We sat on the balcony which provided a beautiful scene of stars, the moon, and Mbarara below. Our food took a rather long time, which suited me fine. I still haven’t gotten used to how long it takes to get food here. I often sit down for a meal not feeling the least bit hungry, but by the time my food arrives, my belly button is rubbing my backbone. It was nice to sit and look at the stars (malaria be damned)! I have been keeping busy to really avoid thinking too much. I was able to settle down and focus on what is happening.　　It is hard, but in perspective, nothing compared to what I see around me. I just wish it wasn’t happening. Time to wake up, Princess, the fairytale is over.

June 13th Another Day, Another Pig Pen

The road to the grandmother’s farm was torturous, but we made it! I was a little nauseous and hadn’t slept so I passed on the millet even though I risked offending my host. I think she understood my gestures and I figured it was better to politely decline rather than puke under her matoke trees. Despite picking up new supplies (2 hammers, 2kg of nails, a panga, and a spike), we didn’t actually help that much. They holes were dug when we arrive and I just finished one off before the poles were added. I mostly handed the one guy nails. I guess if there is a man present, he is given the hammer and is the only one allowed to actually pound nails. I figured with 3 hammers, we could have multiple people hammering and cutting, but it didn’t seem to work because everyone stopped and waited. After a few failed attempts at hammering (I was pretty weak), I sort of decided I should give up. These grandmothers were amazing with the pangas again and it was almost embarrassing how pitiful my chopping attempts were. The language barrier was huge today since Carol came rather than Hilda, who speaks much better English. There was a lot of nodding and gesturing. I caught on to “Mzungu move”…and “give me a nail.”

The woman who the pen was for had a pig. She was so cute and wanted a picture with it, us, and the new pen. They actually tie their animals by the leg here. The pig had a piece of rope around one leg, which the women cut off with a panga. I was sort of scared when they went after the pig with such a big weapon, but it worked out okay. I managed to eat some lunch of beans, matoke, and sweet potatoｅｓ．

We got to play veterinarian twice today since the Veterinarians Without Borders vets are away for a short holiday. The first goat we examined was a 1-day postpartum nanny goat which had prolapsed 2 weeks before delivery. We diagnosed her with having ridiculously large twins that may have caused premature straining. Luckily, the goat seems to be fine now with no evidence of inflammation or abnormal discharge. She had plenty of milk and her kids looked very strong. I was shocked when she said they were only delivered yesterday.

Our second patient was a 2-month post-partum nanny goat that had 3 swellings on her udder. Our exam failed to reveal no pain or heat. Her milk was great. We took pictures to show Dr. Leanne and Dr. Judy when they arrive. I suspect neoplasia or a granuloma, but really I have no idea. Overall, I don’t think we did too much, but I hope that us looking at the goats reassured the women to some extent.

I was so dirty after today, I thought my tan was actually starting to develop. Turns out it was a thick layer of red dust. I did laundry when I got home and I really have come to appreciate washing machines. Kudos to women the world over who wash clothes by hand, this is no easy task.

We had supper at the Lord’s Bar (that is actually the name): muchomo (meat on a stick) and a Tusker beer. It is brewed in Uganda, but it tasted like all the other beer I’ve tried.

June 12th: One Trying Day...

The scheduled activity was to head to the field and build a goat pen. We ‘picked’ Innocent (FAOC’s hired hand) and left him to cut grass for the craft hutch roof at a farm along the way. After a millet beverage that was so bitter it would put hair on my chest if I could have drank any more, we got started. First, we dug holes for the posts with pangas (machetes) and a spike. The posts were added to the holes and stabilized with rocks and soil. Next the floor was placed followed by the frame for the roof. Finally, the side poles were added and the gate, roof and ramp were to be completed at a later time. It turns out I am ok with a panga, but I don’t hold a candle to the grandmothers that were out helping. They would cut a piece in less than 1/2 the time it took me and with fewer strokes. The pen was actually intended for a pig, and after it was finished, I think it looked quite impressive. We were served lunch of beans, matoke and poeshow (mashed-potato like dish).

Back at the grass field to ‘pick’ Innocent, we found him along with several bunches of Ebinyansi (grass). It quickly became evident that the bunches were not going to fit inside our little Suzuki SUV. Onto the roof they went with 2 ropes holding them down. The passenger doors were tied shut because it was the post stable place to tie, so we had to all crawl into the front. The back was loaded with a Matoke (banana) bunch, sugar cane, and our tools. There must have been 50 kids gathered around watching us. The whole scene was very African! There were strands of grass draped on the windshield to complete the picture. The only things missing were an Mbuzi (goat), and some Encocoa (hens). The car definitely got more than the usual stares as people must have been wondering what the Mzungus (white people) were doing with so much grass.

On the ‘highway’ a matoke truck (small semi) stopped in front of us. We stopped in time, but then he backed up, right into us! He drove off as we got out to survey the damage. The bumper was loose and needed fixing, but it was still driveable. We ‘chased’ after at a brisk 30 Km/H in our grass-ladened vehicle. Miraculously, we caught up with him. When he pulled over, he denied hitting us then finally agreed to fix the car. After following him through Mbarara, he stopped at a mechanic on the side of the road. He tied the bumper on with wire and a bolt and superglued a rubber piece that came off.

I rushed home to eat and shower before an anticipated phone call. The news was devastating. I checked, but the Worst Case Scenario Travel Guide that he gave me does not contain a chapter on what to do if your boyfriend breaks up with you a month before the trip. I’m trying my best to understand and to be thankful he didn’t do this after. Europe travel plans will be changed, details to follow regarding what I will do.

As per requested, my flickr address is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jme_r3/
I've recently posted a few more pictures, enjoy!

June 11th Agriculture Conference in Mbarara

Thanks to Dr. William’s kind invitation, we attended a conference title: Capacity Building of Regulatory Agencies to Handle Genetically Modified Plants, Seed, & Processed Foods. The topics covered include Genetically Modified Organism spread, Biological Safety Containment, and Monitoring once Released. At lunch, we had to split up to find seats. I ended up with a botany professor from the University of Nairobi (he was giving the presentations), an Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) employee, and an Agriculture communications expert from Argentina. They had some nice things to say about working with Canadians. It was really neat to be rubbing shoulders with suck important people. I was especially impressed with the woman from the FAO. She was born in Japan and has worked all over the world, including her current base in Rome. She has a Ph.D in sociology, has done some work on Avian Flu, and been accepted for publication by the Centre for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). She sounds like she has a very exciting life. The conference was intended to direct policy in Uganda about GMO’s. Some concerns are trade issues, especially with the EU, spread of GMO’s and consumer perceptions. The conference was scheduled for 5 days but we only attended one. I found it very interesting to hear the discussion on similar issues we face in Canadian agriculture.

June 10th Miss Rothenburger, School Teacher

Things got a bit busy around the office so I was nominated to represent and teach school by my self. I okay with this because Maria didn’t want to and Viv was very busy. I drove for the 1^st time, Hilda kindly reminded me to “keep left.” It went much better than I had anticipated. On the way, we stopped at a primary school and gave them 2 soccer balls. One building had a diagram of the parts of the heart and flower painted on it.

At the school, the deputy headmaster asked if I had ever taught before then had a jolly good laugh when I said no. He assembled the senior biology students for me, approximately 25. I was introduced as a Medical Doctor. After clarifying this point, I launched into my lesson plan. I started off by encouraging them to pursue studies in sciences, even though they are challenging. I told them of my problems with math but said I didn’t let that keep me from doing what interested me. I was just wrapping this up when the teacher raised his hand and excused himself for interrupting me. I thought I was doing something wrong, but instead of commenting on that, he asked: “Can you please explain how radiation causes cancer?” Whoa! I was hindered by a dirty chalkboard so my drawings were a little rough and hard to see but I did my best. I was bombarded with questions after this one and my lesson on how the sciences are related to each other was forgotten.

Here are some sample questions:

Why are some women barren?

How does a toad’s heart work since it only has 3 chambers? (I had no idea and had to tell them I didn't know)

If Canada has so little sunlight in the winter, how do Canadians get enough Vitamin D?

How does cancer occur?

How do mutations occur?

Describe agriculture in Canada.

How does haemoglobin hold onto oxygen in the lungs yet release it in the periphery?

How does a fetus develop? (I told them I took an entire class on this one)

What causes edema?
The most heartbreaking: How can we get to study University in Canada?

I was pleased they asked me so many questions. I had a little quiz at the end and handed out pens and pencils to the ones who answered correctly. Once we wrapped up, a few keeners gathered around. They wanted my email and phone number. Some asked me to find them Canadian pen pals, of the opposite sex. Shyne, one of the good question askers, was very friendly and she showed me her dorm room. Her mother is the secretary at the school so that is why she goes to this one in particular. She wants to be a doctor and I hope she makes it.

June 9th Hero’s Day

It is a public holiday in Uganda to commemorate the people who died in one of the many coos/wars that have occurred in this country. The project for the day was to paint 2 signs that advertise crafts for sale. The other group painted the front of the craft hut, but didn’t do the background. We filled in between the letters and animals. The sign for the fence needed a background too. The signs looked great when they were done. Dr. Willam (our next volunteer assignment). He is very nice and enthusiastic. He is doing a research project looking at Brucellosis in cattle around Lake Mburo National Park. The rainstorm tonight was spectacular and scary all at the same time. I think it was raining Mbuzi (goats). There was thunder and lightning so close, I couldn’t count 1 second between the flash and the sound.

June 8th: Church in Africa

I went to church with Hilda and Warren today. The Lift Up Jesus Church is located in a bar. They welcomed us and asked for an introduction. There were lots of hallelujahs and amens. The singing was very animated with clapping, dancing and shouting. The sermon was delivered by the minister’s wife because he was away on mission. She breastfed her 3^rd born while we introduced ourselves. I had a little trouble following the speech due to the random hallelujahs and amens interspersed. It was not as formal or stuffy has church back home, nobody was quite and still except me. I’m glad I went, it was definitely a new experience. On the walk home, I had my first yoghurt in a bag and it was delicious. Between the yoghurt and chocolate African tea, I should definitely not starve.

June 6th

Today, we traveled to a Parish (I think equivalent to a Rural Municipality, nothing to do with the church). A group of 30 women were gathered under a tree. I felt a little shy but the women rushed over and welcomed us with hugs and handshakes. We sat on a bench and they started in on the meeting. The women supported by FAOC receive 2 goats. They pass on one kid and keep the rest. They share the bucks between them. Goats are the rural banking system, so when money is needed for school fees or other expenses, they sell some goats. Women pay into a group fund as well, which is available on loan when people need it. The group has been buying 2 mattresses a month. Once everyone has one, they will move on to something else, like pots, mosquito nets, etc. They were also having a lottery. Everyone puts in some money and names are drawn. 2 people split the pot and can use the money however they need. The next week, their names are excluded, but they still contribute the 2000Ush ($1.40 Canadian).

We were given a warm welcome. After introductions (they can’t seem to say ‘Jamie’), Warren, another volunteer asked Economic-related questions for his contribution to the project. Currently, they are paying 5% per month interest. Wow! The woman next to me kindly taught me some works in Runyakora, which is the local language. Maria leaned over and told me (or so I heard) Mbuzi is good. So, when my teacher said Agandi (some type of greeting), I replied Mbuzi. Then everyone started laughing. Mbuzi is actually goat. “How are you?” I’m goat, thanks!” My teacher has 10 goats and 7 children. When we were leaving, the preschool children ran up and gave me high five’s. They are so enthusiastic!

I went for tea when we got back and Mama Jane was in the tea house! She was very happy and proceded to slap my face several times. I think it is a sign of endearment. Gloria, an employee, asked about Dr. Kent Wier. They really miss him. I promised to send him a message to see how he is. Gloria was shocked about how long I have spent in University. We went for supper in town. Due to my boda fear, we took a taxi. On the way home, our driver stopped and waited because there was a convoy of fast-moving vehicles. Hilda said it was the President. She figured an important person had died and he was in Mbarara for the funeral. When the coast was clear, we started off. A few seconds later, another vehicle whizzed by: we were in the Presidental Convoy!

June 5th

This morning we went with Group A to Mama Jane’s for tea. She wasn’t in, but I had another good cup of African tea. We discussed with the other group some Global Vets business. Another Canadian volunteer with a different organization brought over an abandoned kitten that wasn’t doing so well. The poor thing looked a little rough and her new owner was leaving for 5 days. Viv offered to care for it while she was away. Her name is Tusker after the world-famous Ugandan beer.

June 4 School Link

The first school we visited was to receive 2 soccer balls and a match against the Mzungus (us). After arranging a time with the headmaster, we went to the neighbouring primary school. The whole school turned up for the assembly. After introductions, we launched into our discussion about Canada. Hilda, a social worker at FAOC, did a great job translating. We talked about the different seasons, especially winter, animals, and how we are veterinarians. We presented pencils to the P2 class which is has many deaf students. Next, we went to the P5 (primary Five = Grade Five). These students received a Canada pin and a pen. This class was asked to write letters to students in Saskatoon. We will take the letters home with us and then arrange for the next group of volunteers/students from Saskatoon to take the replies.

I was a little apprehensive about the soccer match since it has been probably 5 years since I’ve kicked a ball. We had a tour of the school before the match. The classrooms were very basic with simple desks, a chalkboard, and cement floor (the primary had dirt and no desks). The girls door had a dirt floor and rows upon rows of bunkbeds. They had very few possessions: a blanket, a small trunk, and maybe teddy bear. Only about five beds had mosquito nets. I was mauled by a group of girls on the way out. They wanted to touch me. One brave one poked my back. I turned around and started to shake hands. They were shrieking with delight. In the next dorm, I was again surrounded. They started asking me questions in English. Firstly, I had to clarify that we were not from the UK despite Hilda declaring we support Manchester United. They wanted to know what types of food we eat in Canada which let to a discussion on how cold it was so fruits can’t grow most of the year. One girl then asked “Do you have any problems?” I was speechless. The few things that came to mind paled in comparison to the situation here. My life really isn’t so bad and I had nothing to say. These girls live in an over-crowded dorm, who knows how far from home. They are surrounded by messages about HIV/AIDS.

I took some pictures of the girls and they were so delighted. As I showed them, someone touched my hair. I whipped off my sunglasses, shook it out and offered it to them. I can’t remember ever being so popular. I would have loved to stay all day and talk but the game had to be played.

The ‘pitch’ was lined with students, the grass was tall, and we gained an extra defender in the form of a giant rock near the far goal post. We gained a few girls from the school to complete our team. They played in barefeet and skirts and they were really tough. We tied 1-1 and I even kicked the ball a few times. It was really fun!

That night, I discovered the most amazing beverage. At supper, I added chocolate drink mix to my African Tea. I don’t think I have ever tasted something so good.

June 3rd: Mbarara

A taxi took us through a traffic jam to the bus station in Kampala. For once, the travel guide was spot on: it was just as chaotic as the book said. Some guys came to our car and talked to Viv (she’s the boss since she’s done all this before). He took us to a bus which was different than he said. It had seats (only 1/3 full) so we got on for 15,000 Ugandan Shillings (about $8 Canadian). It made the bag handler promise my stuff wouldn’t go missing before I got on. The buses don’t leave until they are full so I went to find a newspaper and buy phone minutes. There were people everywhere, including on the buses, selling everything from plates of hot food, cell minutes, shoes, belts, and water. At a shop along the way (no idea where but definitely on the Southern side of the equator), I bought meat on a stick. The vendors come up to the bus windows. It cost 500 USH ($0.30 Canadian) and tasted awesome! I couldn’t decide if it was beef or goat, but after a few hours on the bus, it was heaven. The bus ride had 2 positive points that stuck out: 1) it was really cheap 2) I didn’t have to ride with a chicken on my lap.

We took a taxi to the hostel where we are staying (we’re in the rooms of 2 Vets who are taking 2 weeks holidays). At the Foundation for AIDS Orphaned Children (FAOC), which is a 30 second walk down the road), we met Boaz (director). FAOC is the first project we are voluneering with. He took us to a fair. There were all kinds of people, food, booths, and the odd goat, which made the place very busy. We met Hilda, who is a social worker with FAOC at the booth (paid by Dr. Kent Wier’s church in Lloydminster as a donation to help the women). They were selling crafts made by the local women, which were actually very nice and I may have bought a few too many! We met up with the other Global Vets group. It was nice to see them and do some catching up. Hilda took me for more meat on a stick (twice in one day!). This time it was definitely goat. I also had some fried grasshoppers, which tasted like shrimp (delicious!). Don’t fret, I have pictures to prove it! While we were standing in the booth, people were taking pictures of us (i.e. local people were delighted to see some Mzungu girls aka white). Everyone seems so nice in Uganda!

I will add the last few days when I can. The internet is slow here as well. I also am deathly scared of riding the Boda Bodas (motorcycles) which have no helmets and don't obey traffic rules. Therefore, getting into town is a little difficult, so don't fret if you don't hear from me for a while. I will be okay and my tan has improved immensly due to the red dust!

June 2nd: In Kampala

It rained overnight and into the next day but luckily I dug out my $1 rain poncho which protected me quite well and amused the heck out of the locals. I had my first ride in a Matatu, which is a minibus/van type thingy here than is used as public transportation and holds 14 passengers legally (sometimes more are crammed in). We split up: Viv went to see if we could buy Gorilla Tracking permits from the Ugandan Wildlife Authority (no luck though), Maria and I went in search of one of Viv’s favourite coffee shops. The walk there took us past the Ugandan parliament and National Theatre, both of which had a very stately appearance. Lunch was at an Indian Restaurant. The nice waiter helped me order because I didn’t understand any of the dishes. It turned out to be a gigantic crepe with veggies. Yummy! We headed to a Craft market where I really enjoyed shopping (probably too much because my bags are now really, really heavy). After a few failed attempts, we boarded a matatu home and ate at the Red Chilly for supper.

June 1st

Our visit to the Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre (UWEC) was very interesting. We had initially hoped to catch the boat to Chimp Island in the morning, but it was full. Instead, I had a leisurely walk around before the crowds hit and while the animals were still active. The highlight was a pair of white rhinos. They were neat to see up close. We also saw some gigantic spiders that almost gave me nightmares. The webs were at least 1 meter in diameter and the spiders must have been at least 10cm. Thank goodness I didn’t get eaten!

After lunch, we took a boat across to Ngamba Island, home to the Chimp Sanctuary. It was a very nice facility. After disembarking from the boat, we were greeted by the head veterinarian who gave us an introductory talk on chimp management including their diet (same as healthy people). The animals are confiscated from the illegal pet trade, or orphaned when their mothers are killed for bush meat. The afternoon feeding was quite the affair! The keepers through various pieces of fruit over the fence while we watched from a viewing platform that was very Jurassic Parkesque. The chimps came out of the bush and made quite the display. The dominant ones stole food from the subordinate ones. It turns out, the dominant male is named Micha! What a coincidence… I’m sorry to report to some of my readers (all 2 of you) that there were no feces thrown while I was there. The veterinarian caught wind of our vet studentness and gave us a whirl-wind tour of the facilities before we boarded the boat. The chimps come in each evening and sleep in chimp dormitories (the forest is too small for them to be in it all the time, apparently they are hard on trees and need a large area). They have an exam room complete with an x-ray machine (provided by a Canadian veterinarian), a laboratory, and a storage room for drugs. The vet was very excited to show us the lazer-guided dart gun! The boat ride back was pleasant and I can now say I have crossed the equator by plane, boat and bus (see later). We took a taxi (Frank of Green Valley’s brother drove us) to Red Chili Hostel in Kampala. It had a great BBQ and I slept like an angel (well, pretty close, anyway).