Somewhere between Moshi and Arusha, we stopped because neither Elis (our Kili guide) nor Walter had “taken breakfast” yet. I drank a glass of African Tea (boiled milk, water and sugar). The 3 of us shared a bowl of African Porridge, which contained bananas and some tough beef. It actually tasted like potato soup. Maria and I shared the African equivalent of a meat and egg spring roll. I really enjoyed eating some local cuisine.
The hike up Mount Kilimonjaro started with fairly easy. The forest was so beautiful; I have never seen anything like it. There were plants growing on top of plants!
Lunch was a welcome rest. I watched 2 porters go by, they carried the baggage on their heads with perfect balance in addition to the load on their backs. 2 young Canadian women were just leaving when we rolled in. They said they are from Ontario and are volunteering in Tanz for a few months.
The post-lunch climb was more challenging for 2 reasons: 1) I was more fatigued and 2) the path was much steeper. We saw Colobus Monkeys, which I would describe as skunks with hands. The Blue Monkeys are actually blue-grey but are named for their juvenile colour.
Our climb could only be described as “Pole, pole (slowly, slowly). 5 hour later, we reached the camp and took a short pause. I had a snack and changed my socks as the men watching had a laugh at me (my new socks were tiny and pink).
On the descent, Maria and Viv led the way while I walked with Elis and had the most informative conversation:
- Kenya: Old tribal issues are the root of the current violence. Tanzania hasn’t experienced this because the first president successfully united the countries tribes. Everyone is so intermarried it would be nearly impossible to create such divisions any more.
- Education: “Free” primary school for all children has come at a great cost. The attendance has sky-rocketed and there are not enough teachers or spaces for the new students. Also, teachers are not being paid regularly, so nobody wants to teach. There are fees, which fund new classrooms and supplies like desks. This fee is still limiting for some people who live in absolute poverty. Secondary and post-secondary school is inaccessible for most students.
- East African Community: in Elis’s opinion it will be good for Kenya, bad for Uganda and Tanzania because the education is not comparable (Kenya has the best education system of the three). Kenyans will out-compete Tanzanians in all aspects of business.
- Government: corruption is rampant and offenders resign when caught but are not brought to justice. Elis said: “Tanzania is a poor country, but not as poor as you would think.”
- Rwanda Genocide: The Tribunal is being held in Arusha.
- World Cup in South Africa: The construction of the stadium has doubled the price of cement in Tanz. People can no longer afford to build homes.
- Marriage: complicated because very beautiful women should be avoided in Elis’ opinion because of the risk they might run off with a wealthy man. He thinks most marriages in Tanz are more like business arrangements.
- Women: Elis is definitely a feminist! Unprovoked, he launched into a rant about women’s rights, education for women, family planning, and overall empowerment of Tanzanian women as the solution to his countries problems.
- The trail: paid for by someone in Denmark and built with the help of a Canadian engineer.
It was dark before we reached the bottom. Maria had her headlamp, which was great. She turn around on the really difficult sections so we could see as well. As I crossed a wooden bridge, I saw the remnants of the sunset. The words hauntingly beautiful do not begin to describe the African Jungle.
Our hotel was nice enough with hot showers and food.
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